We caught the bus then another bus then tram into Zagreb. There was an extra bus to swap to as part of the tram route was under roadworks. There was only 1 small notice on the tram stop so confusion reigned. It took one younger lady to tell us – and all the locals – what the situation was.

We arrived at the central Ban Josep Jelascic Square in Zagreb and decided it was time for coffee. We had the local speciality there – almond croissant with nougat. It was very sweet!

While we were having coffee, a lot of people had gathered in the square. There were protesting for the recognition of injuries to the ethnic Serbians and also Croatians in the storm campaign in 20 years ago during the Balkan wars. There were many TV cameras around and Police. It was good to see that demonstrations are allowed to go ahead in an ex communist country.

We then checked out the Ban Josip jelacic Square – in recognition of the leader of Croatian independence from Austria in the 19th century. The statue has had an interesting time.

In 1947 it was removed by the Communist authorities, who renamed the place “Republic Square.”

When the World University Games were held in Zagreb in 1987, the city was renovated and revitalized. The square was repaved in stone blocks and pedestrianized. The Mandusevec Fountain and the Mandusevec Spring, buried in 1898, were uncovered. In 1990 the Communists era ended, and Josip Jelacic, on his trusty steed, returned to the square.

We then went to the Dolac market immediately next to the square. We checked out the few stores that were open with meat, cheeses, flowers, vegetables and various other things to sell.

We were in the upper town, which is the original historic area set up by the Romans. We Next found Zagreb cathedral which has the old Roman city wall next to it. Zagreb cathedral is closed for renovation which is disappointing.

An old bloke in a tracksuit, then came and offered his knowledge of history, saying he was a history professor. I think he was the mad professor!

We enjoyed seeing all the old decorative buildings in the area.

We then came across the stone gate, which is the last city gate standing. In 1891 there was a large fire in Zagreb, and most buildings were burnt. In an apparent miracle, a painting of the virgin and child was left while everything around it was in ashes. This is now in a shrine within the gate, and lots of people visit it and light a candle to create a wish.

Next just up the road was St Marks Church with the Croatian Parliament building next to it.

It’s a 14th century building with the bright tiles added in 1880 by 2 architects. It was unfortunately closed for renovation. There was a shooting here in 2020 and it had been closed since then.

Just down the road was where Nicola Tesla had declared help to the city. I’m not sure he would be happy how his name has been used today.

Here’s the translated version:

There was a small Greek Orthodox Church – highly decorated inside.

We came to the view over the lower city. Glenn found an empty stall.

There is a funicular to go down and up – but it’s closed for renovation! You may also notice many cranes on the skyline.

We walked down the steps and came across some nice street art.

We came back down to the market and found a traditional cafe that serves burek – and also local beer although I go for the nonalcoholic versions at lunchtime – but not Glenn!

On the way out we found a nice statue of a traditional market stall holder.

After lunch we then checked out the newer lower town.

The Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square is one of 7 parks in Zagreb described as the Green Horseshoe.

The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters building was very grand – but closed for renovation.

The Art Pavilion in Zagreb, established in 1898, holds the distinction of being the oldest gallery in Southeast Europe. But it’s closed for renovation.

The Croatian National Theatre was huge and impressive.

The Croatian State Archives is an impressive looking building – very art deco with owls. It’s on the UNESCO list.

I was looking forward to a cool shady walk in the Botanic Gardens. It closes early on Mondays – so it was closed.

We worked our way back to Ban Josip Jelacic Square seeing a few interesting statues on the way.

We caught the tram and 2 buses back to the campsite and immediately went for a cooling swim in the pool when we got there. We enjoyed a calm night sitting under the awning until it got too chilly. That was a big day!